PIG PET / COMPANION
 Pigs are awesome, but then again maybe me sharing my life with a few dozen of them has be slightly basis.....

ADVANTAGES
Very social and affectionate with people
Highly entertaining and interactive
Fit in to most lifestyles and families
Incredibly clean and odor free
Nice life span 14 to 18 years
If from a good breeder, great health
No shedding or nails scratching
Easy to teach behaviors and tricks to
Retaly wear outfits and or harnesses
No constant barking or howling
Not as destructive as a puppy or parrot
One of the cleanest animals on earth
Get along great with other animals and kids
Minimal routine vet care needed
Low care costs and Hypoallegic

DISADVANTAGES
Zoning is a concern
Spoiled piggies are master manipulators
They can be loud if scared
Require a family commitment
Some vets will not see or treat mini pigs




SPAY AND NEUTER
   Here at Wolf's Den we have high standards. One of our goals is to create a well rounded animal for responsible pet owners to love and enjoy. Another goal is to not add to the population of unwanted animals. For that reason all of our pigs that are placed in pet homes will come already fixed, be accompanied by a fix contract, or be fixed by us before leaving. 
     
If they are accompanied by a fix contract you will receive a fix refund once you take them to a vet of your choice and have them fixed. We require proof of the spay or neuter before refunding the deposit. If this is not done your fix deposit will not be refunded and or you will be billed for a breeding animal. Make sure your vet fixes the pig using proper mini pig techniques. We are not responsible for your vets' actions.

As of 1-1-10 any and all pigs going to a pet home must be spayed and neutered before they leave our care and custody, unless other specific arrangments have been made.


    If fixed by us, we will take them to our vet, have them fixed, keep and care for them while they recover, and you may then come pick them up. We are able to get a "group" rate or a "repeat" customer discount if you will, from our vet. If we fix them for you, a spay ranges from $150 to $250 and a neuter ranges from $75 to $150. Size, age, gender and weight determine the price differences. Most vets charge anywhere from $350 to $550 for a mini pig fix surgery once everything is said and done.

We can also have their tusks clipped at the same time as the surgery for a fee of $25. You may also want your pet to have a perment form of identification or it may be needed for shipping. This can also be done at the same time as the surgery. Either a microchip can be placed under the skin above the shoulder blades for $65 or a tattoo can be placed in the left ear for $25. With the microchip you will receive a membership packet to fill out and must register your pet with the organization to become protected.  

All pigs that will travel out of the state of Michigan, whether shipped or picked up, must be spayed or neutered by us, have a perment form of ID and health papers before going to there new home. The only exception to this rule is if you are purchasing a breeding animal and that animal is approved for breeding by us and our vet, though still must have ID and health papers.

A few facts and differences between the sexes.
    If you are looking for a pet, an animal that will bond with you and love attention, then your piggie must be fixed. Pigs also stay smaller if fixed. Intact boars chomp their teeth and create a frothy foam that has a fowl odor. Boars will "mark" their territory with this foam and with a pungent liquid produced by their "boy parts". Boar's tusks grow very thick and long. Boars do not bond well with people unless they are looking to hump someone. Boars are also prone to testicular cancer. Neutered barrows do none of this. They are calmer and bond very well with people.

    Intact gilts and sows are almost worse. Left intact they start their heat cycle at about twelve weeks old. They cycle every 21 days and the heat last 5 to 7 days. They go through a very strong hormonal change and yes suffer from and lash out because of it. It is very similar to PMS. During this time they will jump on anything and anyone in an effort to breed. Keep this in mind if you have small animals or children. Intact gilts and sows will also whine for hours and call to try and find a boar. The incidence of life threatening uterine tumors and infections are very high in intact females. They are also prone to mammary cancer. Another problem is that during their heat, which lasts 5 to 7 days, they "forget" or don't care about their potty training. Having a spayed gilt greatly decreases and eliminates most of these problems.




FEEDING MY PIG
    Never, ever withold food or water from your pig. Mini pigs should be healthy, NOT skinny and NOT fat. A nice sleek piggie is the goal. Miniature pigs should eat miniature pig food, timothy hay, and healthy snacks.  You can give them one children complete vitamin a day, though should not be needed if you are feeding a proper diet. Healthy and good treats include, but are not limited to 
timothy hay, fresh grass (free of pesticides)   
apples, pears, bananas, grapes
bread, cheese, plan scrambled egg
lettuce, cucumbers, broccoli, cauliflower....

ALL PIGS ARE OMNIVORES!!!!!!!!
They should never be feed a strick vetatarine, carnivore, or herbavore diet!

DO NOT feed your mini juliana, micro mini, or mini mulefoot "potbelly pig" food or any type of "hog" food!!! It would be like you feeding your child chimpanzee food. All pigs are similar, but not the same. The feeds are made for those specific animals and specific reasons. Never allow your piggie to eat salt, salty foods, caffeine, chocolate, or dog food. Their bodies can not digest or process these foods. 

This is not a "diet" that your pig must stay on in order to stay a certain size or height, it is a quality lifestyle and recomdations. We take miniature pig care and health very seriously.

Miniature pigs should be eating a pelleted feed containing 10 to 20% protein, 2 to 6% fat, and 3 to 16% fiber depending on their life stage. This pelleted feed should make up 20% of their total diet. The remaining 80% should be grass, hay, fruits, and vegtiables either as treats throughout the day or at meal time.
  
DUE TO OVERWHELMING REQUEST
We are providing mini pig food to our customers. Over the last 20 plus years we have formulated an awesome mix of essential nutrients, minerals, proteins, and carbs to supply our personal pigs with everything they need to live a happy and healthy long life. These mixes are especially designed for mini pigs with the help of our mill, the state nutritional department and our vet. Check them out under the "Other Things We Offer" section below the question and answers. 

More tips and tricks about feeding is included in our "Help Packet" which is listed below in our section Other Things We Offer.



HOUSING MY PIG
   INDOOR PIGS
Pigs need a place of their own. A quiet room, closet, or crate. Somewhere that they can go to sleep and have alone time. You will also need to teach your pig where he or she may play and with what they are allowed to play with. Hide treats in their blanket, give them a box of their own toys, and hay occasionally.

All pigs need some outdoor time. Both for exercise and for the sun. A minimum of two hours a day outside is suggested, although of course more is better. Just keep in mind your climate. Vitamin D is absorbed through the skin from natural sunlight. 

    OUTDOOR PIGS
Mini pigs do OK living outside. They do need special care and attention as these are not animals ment for harsh weather changes. No matter where your live piggies must have a suitable shelter, access to clean water, and a suitable sized and safe enclosure. Pigs are social creatures. If your pig is going to live outside they do better in small groups. Both for warmth and social interaction. Remember these are highly intelligent creatures you are caring
for.

Hot weather, they will need a kitty pool, a fan, shade, a place for a mud pit, bug spray (must be livestock / animal safe), and sun screen.

Cold weather, they need an insulated house, no drafts, heat lamp, blankets, and or straw, and liquid water at all times. Remember, they have NO FUR.

More tips and tricks about housing is included in our "Help Packet" which is listed below in our section Other Things We Offer.




LITTER TRAINING
    Our piggies already come trained, you will just need to give them a small refresher in their new home.

 Please also, NEVER use clay kitty litter or cedar shavings. Regular pine shavings, recycled newspaper litter, shredded newspaper, or sand are all safe and work very well.

    Pigs should not have free, unsupervised roam of the entire house until at least six months old spayed or neutered, and using the litter box or doggie door consistently. We have found over the years and between all of our research that mini pigs do not have FULL control of their potty habits till they are between 8 and 14 weeks old. But they do have natural behaviors and habits which allow use to start potty training them before that.

    Crate training is the easiest way to go, but rooms work as well as we have already trained them they just need a refresher and or you to continue the rules. Your new piggie, no matter the age, should be kept confined for the first two to four weeks and or until they have settled in to the new home and using the litter box consistently. 

    UPDATE: If you are having potty problems and your piggie is confused, go back to the basics. Start all over again. Remember they are smarter then you in most cases and many times have trained you better then you have trained them. 

    You can also, and in my opinion should, teach your piggie to go outside to potty. You can either put your piggie on a schedule and go outside every few hours to potty, or just start staying outside longer and longer till they potty. 

    Just be practical, they are not going out in two feet of snow to potty, they will find a warm corner in the warm house to go. So always keep a litter box inside just in case of bad weather or unexpected late nights at work.

More tips and tricks about potty training is included in our "Help Packet" which is listed below in our section Other Things We Offer.




HARNESS TRAINING
Mini pigs should NEVER have a collar on for any reason! Pigs are not dogs. Their tracheas', especially little pigs, are easily crushed. They have a fight or flight instict and will strangle themselves or choke. Collars make eating and drinking very uncomforable and difficult. The collars cause severe irritation to the pigs skin if left on.

Harnesses are much safer and easier to control piggies with. You should never leave a harness on for more then a few hours. They can rub air off and create sores.

It is very easy to teach your piggie to willingly step into and want to have you put on their harness. Figure eight harnesses are the best for this reason, but regular dog or cat harnesses will work. Please do not tighten the neck part any more then needed.

More tips and tricks about harnesses and harness training are in our "Help Packet" which is listed below in the section, The Other Things We Offer.





HOOF CARE
Mini pigs have tiny feet, but they will need attention.

It depends on the breed and the surfaces they are walking on most of the time. Normally a little filing here and there is all that is needed. Otherwise a trim three to four times a year is a good average to go by.


More tips and tricks about hoof care is included in our "Help Packet" which is listed below in our section Other Things We Offer.




***2010 LISTS STARTED***

WAITING LIST
    Our policy regarding our "waiting" list. This option guarantees you a spot in line for a pig or piglet. I will only breed my animals knowing that there are homes waiting for them. For those reasons any and all deposits are nonrefundable. Deposits are however transferable to any future pig or piglet within a twelve month span from the deposit date. A waiting list agreement will accompany this option.

    We do however ask that you do your own research and ask lots of questions so that you have an idea of what you want and need in a piggie. This is to help us so that we can breed accordingly and advise other people on our waiting list what is available. The order in which you will be notified and may choose a piglet is the order in which I have received your deposit and waiting list agreement. 

    Piglet selections can be made in person, over the phone, thru emails, via fax, or thru snail nail. We will provide you with pictures and information about the available piglets so that you can make an apropriate selection. We prefer waiting intil the piglets are at least two weeks old before selections are made, but we will notify you the day litters fitting your describtions are born.  Deposits will be applied toward the total purchase price of the piglet you select. The minimum deposit required to be put on our waiting list is $150.00 per pig or piglet wanted. For deposits we will except cash, personal check, money order, or paypal (add 4%) 

    The wait for a piglet depends on the pigs due dates and the people ahead of you. Some people are waiting for a specific breed, color, pattern, size, or eye color and will "pass" on any piglets that do not fit their exact description. Some people on the wait list are not picky at all and will take whatever is available next. The wait list holds your spot and garentees you piglets and or pigs to choose from.




WANTING LIST 
    Our policy regarding the "wanting" list. This option is for those who have done research, asked lots of questions, but are still not sure what kind or if they truely want a pig or piglet. People on this list do not need a deposit in order to be put on the wanting list. When or even if there are any extra or unclaimed pigs or piglets, people on this list will be notified before I post any outside ads to the general public. There are no promises when or even if there will be any extras. If you are not interested in the extra or unclaimed pigs or piglets you can be put back on the wanting list and wait for future animals to possibly become available. With this option there is no need for a contract or agreement.




REFRENCES
    Due to popular demand of my past and current piggie owners I do not offer reference names, numbers, addresses, or even emails. Most people that purchase or adopt a piggie want a beloved pet and have no interest in helping me advertise or sell more pigs, neither do I.....I beleive that my pigs sell themselves and I have no problems finding homes or keeping every pig I produce. 

    In the past I have given out refernces to anyone who asked, but some situations have come up and my costumer's kindness have been abused. I now will only give out information and refereces to people serious and intending on purchasing a piggie. In some cases I can even arrange a meeting with past customers and their piggies.

    I do apologize to any perspective new owners or customers, but in todays society I can understand my past customers wearyness to have strangers contact them. 

    I am however happy to give out USDA, and vet referneces upon request. I also always have all of our inspection reports form all our licesing, permits, insurence, certificates, USDA, and vets available for veiwing.




FARM VISITS
Normally we do not allow farm visits. There are a few exceptions to this rule, but not many. To give you just a few reason why, please read below.......
1.  Between our zoo and ponies that travel the tri state area, the farm chores, all the animal breeding programs, herd care, my personal and family life, there is just not enough time in the day as it is. It is hard enough to coordinate daily activities and find time for people to come out and pick up animals.
2.  To top it all off our licensing and insurance frown upon farm visits and tours.
3.  We run a very clean, healthy, and diease free breeding program and strive to keep it that way. We adhere to the USDA guidelines and are very conerned about biosecurity. Having people come onto our property greatly increase the chance of contamination.
4.  We have a protocall and procdures that we follow when people come to pick out their pigs. It is just rediculous and not practical to go through this everytime someone wants to come "see" or "play" with our pigs.
5.  Please also keep in mind, many of our pigs and piglets are already sold or on hold and their for do not belong to us. Most people do not want their pigs exposed to and or handled by strangers.
6.  We have one of the best breeding programs in the USA. We produce qulaity, healthy litters, with good even temperemnts. One of the reasons we can acheive this feat is because we try extremely hard not to stress, upset, or bother our breeding stock.....especially during breeding season.
***One expection to this rule is if you are coming to pick out or pick up your pig.***
***Another exception is if you are willing to pay for the provention procdure. This entails disinfecting everywhere a person has walked or touched on our propety. Also includes the full scrub down and brief quarintine of the pigs or piglets that are veiwed and or touched.***




QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS
This is general information and is not set in stone. Any questions or concerns about specific breeds, care, or handling please ask.

Are mini pigs hypoallergic?
Yes, mini pigs are about 95% hypo allergentic...a very few will develop super dry skin and have dander, extremly sensitive people will have a reaction to that dander. It is however much easier to avoid and prevent in mini pigs then in many other pets as they have hair, NOT fur, just as we do.

Why should I bother to spay or neuter?
You should think about this long and hard. If you are interested in having a pet or a well mannered companion, fixing is a must. They are far less messy, not as moody, smell less, much less aggressive, less territorial and over all much happier if spayed and neutered. Please revisit our spay and neuter section above for more details.

At what age can piglets be fixed?
Some vets go by age and others go by size.....our vet goes off a combination of the two. In general males need to be 4 weeks or older and weigh at least 2lbs. In general females need to be 8 weeks or older and weigh at least 3lbs. Some other factors may come into play, these are gereral ages and weights.

Do I have to have my pigs tusks clipped?
It is up to you. ALL pigs, big, little, miniature, males, and females have tusks. If your pig is neutered or spayed the tusks will not grow as thick or long as they would if the pig was left intact. Most people have their pig's tusks clipped very low when they are under anestitic for their spay or neuter. It is easier and less stressful. They will grow back, but very slowly and normally do not purdrude from the mouth as they would if not fixed or clipped. Average is 2 to 4 years, if you want, you can have your vet file them down or clip again.

Can we have the tusks pulled instead of clipped?
Yes, but  it is more painful and they may need pain medication. It also leaves a direct "hole" to the jaw bone and can become infected very easily. So they need to be on antibotics aswell. It is also a more in deepth procedue. For all of those reasons pulling the tusks at the same time as the fix surgery ranges from $75 to $150 and may need further vet treatment while recovering. Think of it has having four teeth pulled at the same time, at the front of your mouth. 

Which gender is better for a pet?
There is no "better" gender. It depends on what you want your pet to be like in the long run. A pet should always be fixed, but even then there are a few differences. Neutered males are more laid back, mellow, and easy going in most situations. Spayed females have opinions, are more demanding, and are more active.

Do they get alone with other animals?
Yes, if they are raised with other animals they do fine and infact will buddy up in most cases. Especially if they are fixed. All of our pigs are raised with a large variety of animals and are very well socialized. You do have to be careful at feeding time. Check out some of the other pictures.

Should I get two pigs for company?
If you have two pigs they will bond and buddy up with each other and have little use for you or any other critter. This is good if you are gone from home alot or if they are kept outside. It is possible to have two loving, people bonded pigs, but it takes three times the attention, love, and enteraction to keep them that way.

Can I get one now and another later on?
It is very, very, very hard to introduce another pig later on. It can be done, easier if both are fixed and if the new pig is slightly smaller then the current pig. Pigs can be very territorial, jelaous, and literally fight for their toys, space, and time with you.

Are they ok with small kids?
You need to use some of your own judgement here, you know your kids and we know our pigs. It is a must that your piggie is spayed or neutered and a very good idea to have tusks clipped if childern will be around the piggie. We raise our piglets around thousands of childern of all ages aswell as have kids ourselves and have never had a problem.

What can I do about my pig's dry skin?
Not much. Pigs have hair and no sweat glands, so their skin is natrually dry. You should only bathe your pig when it is nessecary, maybe once a month. Bathes dry out their skin even more. You can add a tablespoon of natrual oil to each meal, this will help. Or their are a handful of lotions that can be used safely. 

What should I feed my pig?
Food that is made for the type pig you have. If you have one of my pigs, they need a speical diet. It is easy to find or mix your self and very low cost. Or if you are close, you may purchase feed from us. In general if you have a miniature pig it should eat miniature pig food. If you have a potbelly pig
it should eat potbelly pig food, and if you have a hog, it should eat hog food. They are as different as dog and cat food.

Are there foods that can harm my pig?
YES.....never feed your miniature pig salt, caffine, chocolate, or dog food. Their bodies ae too small and not designed for these foods. Table scraps are a no, no, aswell. Do some more research, there are lots of plants that can be posionous aswell.

How long do mini pigs live for?
Miniature pigs have a wide range of age execpetancy. It depends on the breed, size, over all health conditions, and most of all you care throughout the animals life. Anywhere from 12 to 18 years old.

How often do I need to trim their hooves?
It depends on the breed and the surfaces they are walking on most of the time. Normally a little filing here and there is all that is needed. Otherwise a trim three to four times a year is a good average to go by.

Are mini pigs demanding?
That depends on you and how you raise and treat your pig. Just like childern, they are intellagent and you can spoil them very easy and then have problems. They need just as much time and attention as any dog or cat.

Does my pig need exercise?
Do you ever need to move around and be active? Yes, yes, yes. If you want a truely healthy and happy pet your pig should have room to play and exercise. These three breeds have sleeker bodies, longer legs, and are very willing to run, climb stairs, jump, and be fun interactive parts of your life.

Can I get a bottle baby and raise my own piglet?
NO, NO, NO. This is cruel and there is no need or benifit. Piglets are just as tame and loving if they are left with their mothers. Bottle raising, unless absolutely nessecary and done correctly, does lead to health problems, weak and sick piglets, and most often death. New owners are new to pigs and have no buissness trying to bottle raise a piglet. If done correctly and with an experienced bottle raiser it is fine.....

Will my piglet get as big as its mom and dad?
NO! Our pigs are breeding pigs and are kept on the heaiver side to help produce good, healthy, strong babies, with easier births. It is hard work and takes alot out of them. Our piglets will be smaller then the parents, especially if spayed or neutered before 4 months of age.

Where can I find piggie supplies?
There are many places to obtain mini pig items from. Some pet shops, feed mills, or TSC. We also offer a starter package and a care package.

What should I look for in a breeder?
I truely do not mind if you don't buy your piggie from me, there are other very nice and honest pig breeders in the US. Please make sure they have healthy, well cared for stock that live inside (if you want an inside pet) or have good shelter and nice outside pens and are socialized. Double check the parents size, either in person or with ample pics. Look thru there paperwork. Every good breeder will have vet records, health records, pedigrees, ect available. Most of all go with your gut. If you think they are lying about something, they probably are. You always should get straight anwsers to your questions. Becarful of breeders trying to put other people, there compition, down. Slander is not a trait you want in a good breeder. Most of all, you want breeders with experinece....not the person trying a fast get rich scam. Please be careful.

PLEASE EMAIL ONLY




OTHER THINGS WE OFFER
These packages and or items have been added due to overwhelming request by our past and future clients. We are always willing to add more items if you are having a hard time finding something let us know.


BAGS OF FEED
Over the last 20 plus years we have formulated an awesome mix of essential nutrients, minerals, proteins, fats, fiber, and carbs to supply our personal pigs with everything they need to live a happy and healthy long life. These mixes are especially designed for mini pigs with the help of our mill, the state nutritional department and our vet. A 20lb bag of feed should last one of our pigs between 8 and 12 weeks. Each bag comes with a measuring cup.
nursery mix 20lb bag $25
junior mix 20lb bag $20
adult mix 20lb bag $20
senior mix 20lb bag $25


STARTER  PACKAGE
Our starter package comes with 10lbs of food, bag of hay, a harness and leash, water and food bowl, piggie bed, blanket, litter box, litter, and poop scoop, skin lotion, and thermometer. $200
Blue                 Red
Green               Purple
Pink                Black


Piggie crate with tray  $175
Piggie exercise pen with mat $100


PIGGIE CARE PACKAGE
This comes with three safe pig toys, piggie shampoo and conditioner, piggie safe treats, tip and tricks guide "Help Packet",  a piggie safe brush, a nail / hoof file and clippers, clicker for training, sun screen, ear cleaner, and cotton balls. $150
Blue                  Red
Green                Purple
Pink                 Black


We will set individual items from our packages, but not at the same discount as when items are put into packages.

AVALIBLE PIGGIES FOR OUR WAIT LISTERS ONLY
Currently going down the wait list, if any piggies are unclaimed  we will go down our "want list", then if any still remain we will offer to the public.